Tuesday 24 March 2009
We go home and take Cyril
Cyril only had a moment of ~Cyrildom, and that was brief, on our journey home. We stayed in an hotel in Puerto Rico, just opposite the CockFighting Club, on the fifth floor with very noisy air conditioning which fell apart in the middle of the night. We had two princess beds in a double room, I don't know who they thought that we would be bringing in, maybe a princess or two or maybe they expected a whale or two. The ceiling tiles were falling off! oh where was the Maria Callas suite of the Botel! We didn't have to be there long, and it didn't live up to its name which was the Coral by the Sea, no sea there, no coral either. This was more like the Hotel Midland in Mumbai. But cheap though and as we were asleep that was all that matters, who needs lapping waves and room service when you are asleep anyway and your dreams might take you to the place you were trying to avoid. We took a taxi back to the airport, and spent hours there, it was clean and we both had books. We flew to JFK, New York and into another shopping airport space, two hours there and we boarded our flight back to the UK. Mary met us, yippee, took us back to Lionel Mansions, we yawned our way down the A1 to daffoldils at Great Staughton. Liz has cooked the first supper in two months and it was fine. Letter opened, fire lit, children contacted, washing done, daffoldils picked. All that remains is to get into a good old English bed.
Caribbean Cruising with Bob
Bob's boat should be called the Botel because it is as good as being in a first class hotel with staff. Charlie met us at the ferry and scootled us across to the boat. We had the Maria Callas suite, aka, the Mr and Mrs Owner Suite. On board were the deputy lieutenant of Pembrokeshire, curiously, a Scot, and his lady wife. They had been sailing with Bob on Adastra for the last few days and had not had such good weather as we were about to get. In this part of the world you feel as if you are in a brochure, the sea really is turquoise, the sand really is white, yes there really are turtles and steel bands which echo through the evening into the early morning with that ring. All the days are now melted into a similar theme, sailing in the day, stretched out whale like on the deck, hoping that it would not be sick making, covered in sun bloc but hoping all the time to catch the sun. Every evening pronto the gin and tonic came up from the below with lemon and ice just as the sun shot down below the horizon, at twice the speed it does in Hammersmith or even St Neots when it just quietly drops in an English way, unnoticed below the horizon. And almost every evening we would don our slightly less crumpled garments and attempt to arrive on shore undamp and we would walk along the caribbean streets looking in at the restaurants which were French in flavour and expensive in genre. We ate well which was why Liz tried to swim every moment the boat was still and she could get over the side, remember the ~Ghirandelli chocolate shop, there was a long way to go. The absolute best thing which nearly rotted the resolve to leave the world and take to the way of the renunciate was the introduction to diving, admittedly just with a snorkel, but oh the quiet of that under water world, the beauty and uninterrupted life of the little brightly coloured fish, and the malevolent look of the ugly ones, the groupers and their mates. If I could stay ever young, ever safe from predators and just sink beneath the waves, oblivious of all the back and forth of life, I might forget that old age follows youth and just become a sea anemone.
Thursday 19 March 2009
Travel with Cyril
Travelling with Cyril
As we have travelled along Liz has been reading all of the Alexander McCall 44 Scotland Street Books which has sometimes been embarrassing because in public places, ie aircrafts, she will suddenly become mildly hysterical. These are the most delicious travel companions, written at the sort of speed which is restful and as well as being funny, they are full of observations of life which not only make you chortle but also nod in agreement. In the Scotland Street Community there is a dog called Cyril, he belongs to Angus who he loves and who feeds him little delicacies like cappuccino from the cup in Big Lou’s CafĂ© and glasses of beer in the local pub. So like a human is he that his thoughts have been recorded and amongst them has been identified a predilection to bite the ankles of a few chosen people. Suddenly Liz realises that Cyril is like Richard or Richard is like Cyril. When travelling, especially in airports and maybe in cars, Richard, who is usually excellently behaved, changes, his lip lifts and a snarl, not audible to many precedes a growl and beware the poor airport staff member whose ankles are luckily usually hidden below the desk. Identifying this characteristic as a hidden tendency, perhaps from a past incarnation, has vastly improved the travel routine, the Cyril factor is not allowed near those who might tempt his gold tooth into action.
We, without Cyril are now floating around the Caribbean on Bob’s floating hotel, the Adastra. It is just like the pictures, the sea is turquoise blue, the sands are white, the people have mostly got lots of money which has turned the little villages into offshoots of Gucci and Prada interspersed with wonderful French restaurants. Here the recession is not obvious. We have been swimming and snorkelling while Bob spoils us something rotten. This is the perfect end to our gap year, I think we have done everything that anybody could ever dream of doing.
As we have travelled along Liz has been reading all of the Alexander McCall 44 Scotland Street Books which has sometimes been embarrassing because in public places, ie aircrafts, she will suddenly become mildly hysterical. These are the most delicious travel companions, written at the sort of speed which is restful and as well as being funny, they are full of observations of life which not only make you chortle but also nod in agreement. In the Scotland Street Community there is a dog called Cyril, he belongs to Angus who he loves and who feeds him little delicacies like cappuccino from the cup in Big Lou’s CafĂ© and glasses of beer in the local pub. So like a human is he that his thoughts have been recorded and amongst them has been identified a predilection to bite the ankles of a few chosen people. Suddenly Liz realises that Cyril is like Richard or Richard is like Cyril. When travelling, especially in airports and maybe in cars, Richard, who is usually excellently behaved, changes, his lip lifts and a snarl, not audible to many precedes a growl and beware the poor airport staff member whose ankles are luckily usually hidden below the desk. Identifying this characteristic as a hidden tendency, perhaps from a past incarnation, has vastly improved the travel routine, the Cyril factor is not allowed near those who might tempt his gold tooth into action.
We, without Cyril are now floating around the Caribbean on Bob’s floating hotel, the Adastra. It is just like the pictures, the sea is turquoise blue, the sands are white, the people have mostly got lots of money which has turned the little villages into offshoots of Gucci and Prada interspersed with wonderful French restaurants. Here the recession is not obvious. We have been swimming and snorkelling while Bob spoils us something rotten. This is the perfect end to our gap year, I think we have done everything that anybody could ever dream of doing.
Sunday 15 March 2009
more photos soon
just to say that it hasn't been possible to load any more photos up because the computers in business centres don't allow it, however, as soon as we get back home, we will load up a few more photographs to show what we did after Tasmania and of course we will tell everybody about Bob and his boat.
NO more chocolate please
We took the courtesy bus back to the airport, fortunately it wasn't yesterday's driver who Richard had expressed some displeasure to owing to the lateness of the hour and the fact that our modest little Holiday Inn Express was the last hotel drop off. We then took the train back to town and walked. We notice that all Americans have got excellent white teeth, and this is one of their gifts to the world and is perhaps why they all smile. They are just as polite as can be and even when you knock into them they say "And how are you today" as if they know you and might give you a kiss if you leant towards them.
Liz was allowed into two shops! and there are some of you out there who may benefit in a modest way. She now has a pair of Puma shoes and looking down at them thinks they look so good that they might be a pair of feet from an advertisement. Having worn almost nothing but open shoes whilst we were in Aus and NZ, this American spring has a distinctly chilly feel. So well equipped we could have walked for miles but because the trams and buses are so good and you can travel as an OAP for 50 cents, we rode down towards Market and then went along the Embarquolade passing the old wharves which are mostly now turned into warehouses for the bustling shopping area which constitutes San Fran high life. This goes all the way along to Fisherman's Wharf via Pier 39 which is a proper pier with a mass of restaurants all with the same menu, lots of souvenir shops and a roundabout. One of the sights though is to see the sea lions who arrived here after an earthquake shook them from wherever they were before. They lie in considerable piles of family on the different platforms which float along the side of the pier, mostly they were asleep but still put on a bit of a show for the tourists watching them. There was a great sweetie shop with barrels of sweeties and Liz was also allowed in here, not for long though but long enough Sophie, Lottie and Eleanor to come out with sweeties that fizz. Back on another 50 cent bus to the actual Fisherman's Wharf famed for crab chowder served in sourdough baskets, scooped out sourdough loaves with the chowder inside. We watched the bread being made through the window of Boudins, an old Bakery. Although some of it is hand made, mostly there are great bits of machine which knead it and steam it and shape the loaves because they need so many. These are then sent along in baskets overhead to the shop end where they are tipped into more baskets and sold or else they have their heads chopped off for the chowder to be put inside. We walked along to a restaurant where we had crab and that very good bread. This was very good but almost as good was the party in the middle of the restaurant who were celebrating several birthdays of several different members and they took up a lot of room and had us guessing who was related to who and whose child was whose. This is probably what happens when you have been travelling for so long! We just kept enough room to go to Ghirandelli's chocolate shop. DO THIS any of you and yes DO GET the huge chocolate sundae and DO GET TWO spoons for one because even the most intrepid chocolate eating person won't get through one on their own. We didn't want to do any more walking after this even with those good walking shoes, we just wanted to come back to the Holiday Inn Express and lie down and never eat anything again.
Liz was allowed into two shops! and there are some of you out there who may benefit in a modest way. She now has a pair of Puma shoes and looking down at them thinks they look so good that they might be a pair of feet from an advertisement. Having worn almost nothing but open shoes whilst we were in Aus and NZ, this American spring has a distinctly chilly feel. So well equipped we could have walked for miles but because the trams and buses are so good and you can travel as an OAP for 50 cents, we rode down towards Market and then went along the Embarquolade passing the old wharves which are mostly now turned into warehouses for the bustling shopping area which constitutes San Fran high life. This goes all the way along to Fisherman's Wharf via Pier 39 which is a proper pier with a mass of restaurants all with the same menu, lots of souvenir shops and a roundabout. One of the sights though is to see the sea lions who arrived here after an earthquake shook them from wherever they were before. They lie in considerable piles of family on the different platforms which float along the side of the pier, mostly they were asleep but still put on a bit of a show for the tourists watching them. There was a great sweetie shop with barrels of sweeties and Liz was also allowed in here, not for long though but long enough Sophie, Lottie and Eleanor to come out with sweeties that fizz. Back on another 50 cent bus to the actual Fisherman's Wharf famed for crab chowder served in sourdough baskets, scooped out sourdough loaves with the chowder inside. We watched the bread being made through the window of Boudins, an old Bakery. Although some of it is hand made, mostly there are great bits of machine which knead it and steam it and shape the loaves because they need so many. These are then sent along in baskets overhead to the shop end where they are tipped into more baskets and sold or else they have their heads chopped off for the chowder to be put inside. We walked along to a restaurant where we had crab and that very good bread. This was very good but almost as good was the party in the middle of the restaurant who were celebrating several birthdays of several different members and they took up a lot of room and had us guessing who was related to who and whose child was whose. This is probably what happens when you have been travelling for so long! We just kept enough room to go to Ghirandelli's chocolate shop. DO THIS any of you and yes DO GET the huge chocolate sundae and DO GET TWO spoons for one because even the most intrepid chocolate eating person won't get through one on their own. We didn't want to do any more walking after this even with those good walking shoes, we just wanted to come back to the Holiday Inn Express and lie down and never eat anything again.
from san francisco
Not quite the end, but near. We arrived in San Francisco at near to midday this time, having left Auckland at 7.00 pm their time, we have gone backwards, travelling taking place on the same date. Somehow our brains must have known what was happening because neither of us slept for more than an hour which gave ample time for watching films. I should think that there are very few unviewed movies left, we have seen Slumdog Millionaire, Australia and Quantum of Solace amongst many, in fact Liz managed to watch 5 films en route this time. Once we arrived we found our way to our new Holiday Inn Express (very good value) had a brief rest and then took the airport bus back to the airport(free) and the subway BART into town. San Francisco is about 10 times as large and a million times as lively as most of the places we have been put together. Richard had already been here so knew what to do and we took a tram up the hill from Powell, got out at the very top and walked back down window gazing. We had a very good dinner in a jolly diner, jam packed and then walked about a bit downtown taking in the still busy shops and general feeling of spend. No obvious signs of recession, ie not many Sales but perhaps this was because San Francisco is unique and draws people from everywhere. Perhaps as a consequence of watching so many films and then taking in so many different impressions, we slept SO deeply that we didn't wake up until 9.00 am local time.
Friday 13 March 2009
final call from this hemisphere
This is a final post probably until we get home and put up the photographs and tell you about our sailing with Bob in the Caribbean! We leave this afternoon after a very good and rather restful stay in Auckland where we have caught up with Molly and John Julian, lots of laughter and recounting old shared memories and of course finding out about what each of has been about during the last 30 years! During our time with them we went out by ferry to Waiheke, a small island about 30 minutes by boat from Auckland, and we had lunch in the New Zealand Royal Yacht Squadron, we joined a philosophy group in the very fine Auckland School House near Mount Eden, chatted about Justthisday 2009, we had a jolly evening with Mark and Elisse Broadwith after meeting small Broadwith person, a very fine specimen of mankind called James who was exceptionally good! We went out to dinner with them at a smart restaurant, Oh Calcutta, just round the corner from our apartment where lots of children who had been pupils at the Ficino School whilst he was headmaster, came up and greeted him, very touching, and the owner of the restaurant whose children had been there insisted that we had the very good meal and wine on the house. Now we are all packed up, we have washed and shaken every garment, we have said goodbye to almost everyone and are off for Richard's final bluff oysters, we are having lunch with Barrie and Emilie Preston before we drop off the car, the sat nav, god bless her, and get back in to travel mode. Richard is already thinking about what he can worry about but being so relaxed it is difficult for him to find anything. We thank everybody in Australia, and in New Zealand who has made beds up for us, given us breakfast, dinner, lunch and tea, amused us, shown us around and we will look forward to returning hospitality to anybody who comes our way.
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